Thursday, 25 September 2014

Tajikistan P5: The Wakhan Valley

Having stayed in Khorog for a fews, my plan was to set out to the Wahkan Valley. I thought to try my luck at the local CBT office in Khorog PECTA to find a group who would want to share a car. To my luck, I met 4 other travellers, Dimitri, Nico, Gabi and Camilla who happened to arrived at Pamir Logde the night before where I was staying who had the same plans. Nicolas, who had kept contact with his driver from Dushanbe made arrangements to call our driver.

The next morning, our driver Mukhtor promptly picked us up from the Pamir Lodge where we were staying ay 8am.
Our 4WD for the trip.

Day 1:Yamchun

Leaving Khorog, we headed the road south into the Wakhan Valley to be welcome be stunning views and signs of life over the river over the Afghan side.

First glance of the Wakhan Valley. Life across the border on the Afghan side.
Scenery becomes more stunning as we move along the valley
Some greenery with gorgeous mountain backdrops.

Stop 1: Khaaka Fortress

About 15km after Iskashim we took our first stop to visit Khaaka Fortress, which dates back to 300BC, although it had been reused since by other civilisation and in recent time by Tajik military as a watchpost until recently.

Old section of the fortress wall.

Dimitri(top) taking a photo from the top and Nico(bottom right) making his way up the path.
View from the top of the fortress.
Across the river, Afghan farmers working the fields.

Stop 2: Towards Yamchun Fort and Bibi Fatima Springs

Leaving Khaaka Fortress, we continued on to our next destination for Yamchun Fort and Bibi Fatima Hotsprings with continuing deteriorating road conditions however producing what was probably the most stunning part of the Wakhan Valley.
As green as it gets in the Wakhan Valley.

Unsealed roads into the valley.

Sitting on a hilltop, what remains of Yamchun Fort.

Yamchun Fort.

Sunset as we head back down the mountain to find a place to sleep for the night.

Finding a bed for the night

Heading down, we continued on to Vrang to find a place to sleep for the night where we stayed at a lovely traditional Pamiri house.


The main room inside the Pamiri house.
Owner of the homestay.

His lovely daughter. 

Day 2-3: Back to the Pamir Highway

Initially planning to go to Langar(30km east) and do abit of hiking, we decided against it after meeting some travellers who were disappointed by the main attraction in Langar of some ancient petroglyphs so decided to go further towards Jelandy to shorten our last day back to Khorog. There wasn't much to see on day 3.

Nico and Dimitri riding on the rooftop of the car.
Passing Shoh Kambari Oftab Mazar Shrine.
View from the top of the pass.
Feeling like being on top of the world. Left to right: Gabi, Mukhtor and Dimitri.
Before cars... A long long trip...
Wakhan Valley. One more pass to go over.
Passing through border guards marking the end of our trip in the Wakhan Valley 
Passing a small lake on our way out of the Wakhan Valley.
Back on the Pamir Highway. A stark difference to the more furtile Wakhan Valley.
Pamir Highway.

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