Leaving Sarytag, the homestay organised a driver back to Savoda on the main highway before I tried to hitch my ride to Dushanbe (technically not hitch since you pay for a ride. Everyone seems to be a taxi in this part of the world).
The road to Dushanbe proved an interesting right as you enter the "tunnel of death". A pothole filled tunnel with absence of good lighting and airflow whatsoever. Originally built by the Iranians, the tunnel is said to be so bad that it is unfixable and even the Chinese do not want to get their hands dirty according to the locals.
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The "tunnel of death". |
Road to Khorog
Entering Dushanbe, I wasn't all that fascinated by what it had to offer, so after spending 2 days sorting out my permit for the Pamirs, my plans for to take a flight to Khorog the next morning. Leaving my hostel at 5am, I headed for the airport in hope of getting a plane ticket to Khorog. However, this plan quickly apart and by 7.30am, with no prospect of getting on a plane, I moved on to the shared taxi stand for my 16 hour ride to Khorog.
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Car getting loaded and ready to leave |
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Not to happy with the seating arrangement. 5 in the middle seat. Total number of people in the car: 11 including driver! |
Embracing a car cramped with locals, the drive provided some stunning views and signs of Afghan life as we drove along the Tajik-Afghan boreder. However, a taxing and bumpy 16 hour ride with quite a few head-banging on the roof of the car.
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Driving past Nurek Reservoir. Pity I couldn't get out the car for a better shot. :( |
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Enjoy the good road while it last. There ain't much of it! |
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Heading towards the Tajik-Afghan border. Only unsealed/gravel road from herein. |
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Passing some border police patrolling the highway. |
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Heading into the valley. Beyond the river lies Afghanistan. |
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Taking a much needed break to stretch those legs! |
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A border crossing between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. Not opened to foreigners. |
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Sign of life on the Afghan side across the river. |
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Sun setting and losing light yet still nowhere near Khorog! |
Khorog Roof of the World Music Fesitival
Having met a Uzbek singer back in Dushanbe, I was informed there was a music festival running over the weekend between 1-3 August where musician from the the 7 Stans would be performing. It gave a unique opportunity to experience the local culture and music before my plan to move on the Wakhan Valley.
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A local Tajik Pamiri girl performing during the opening ceremony of the music festival. |
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A girl performing a tradition dance. |
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Group of women musician performing at the festival. |
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An Afghan duo. |
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Local girls dressed in tradition dress. |
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Dancing to the beat of the music. |
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Looking at a photo of herself. |
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Enjoying the music festival. |
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Dance time and the sun goes down. |
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Performer help getting the party started |
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Performer help get the crowd dancing. |
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Hiding from the sun. |
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Musician from Uzbekistan. |
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Singer from Samarkand Uzbekistan, Romiz who I met in Dushanbe and told me about the festival. |
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Performer from the festival enjoying themselves. |
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Local performer/dancer at the festival. |
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A Pakistan-Afghanistan band help get the dance floor going. |
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Full house on last day of the festival. |
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A singer from a Pakistan-Afghanistan group daning. |
That's all for now. Next post, my journey of the Pamir continues.
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