Sunday 14 September 2014

Tajikistan P3: Penjikent and the Fan Mountains Highlights

My journey in Tajikistan continued leaving Istaravshan towards Penjikent. Initially not planning to head this way, I was intrigued by it's history after meeting a fellow traveller David the night before who sold me on the prospects of Penjikent and it's ancient Silk road past. Penjikent offered some interesting archaeological sight and a nice springboard to visit Kaft Kul(Seven Lakes) in the Fan Mountains.

Going through some high passes and mountainous roads, it gave a nice taste of what Tajikistan had to offered. Although, somewhat taxing conditions as most roads were badly maintained and unsealed but providing some great views.
The road to Penjikent. One bumpy ride.

A taste of Tajikistan mountainous landscape on the way to Penjikent 
Roadside stop: natural cooling system using spring water. No fridge needed here.

Penjikent
Arriving in Penjikent, we checked out Elina Guesthouse located on the eastern side of town. This was full which however, became a blessing in disguised. Living next door to Elina Guesthouse was Niyazov Niyozkul who proofed to be very helpful and knowledgable of the surrounding area. David who had spoken to Niyozkul the night before welcomed us to stay at his place and proofed the best value accommodation in Tajikistan at $10/night with breakfast, lunch and dinner inclusive!

The man himself, Niyozkul with his wife and daughter.
Dinner at Niyozkul with fellow Australian Adam.
Living next door to Niyozkul resides a chess grandmaster and former world number 76 from Tajikistan who introduced me and David for a nice schooling at the game.
Living next door resides a Chess grandmaster and former world number 76!


Around Penjikent

Ancient Penjikent

Located about 1.5km from where today Penjikent is, lies the old Soghdian city which was once the most cosmopolitan city along the Silk road before being annexed by the Arabs in 722. Today, not much remains but clear structural foundation can still be seen of the old city. Whilst visiting the sight, I met an archeologist who was excavating a sight who gave some great insight.

Beyond the hilltop lies the sight of Ancient Penjikent
Some structural foundation remain intact of the old city
A foundation wall that remains intact

Part of a wall believed to be the inner wall to a worship/dining room.
Some fragments of artifacts excavated from a sight archeologist is working on. The black line and remains of ashes and signs that the place was razed to the ground.
The view from Ancient Penjikent looking towards Zerafshan River in the distance.

Sarazm

An UNESCO world heritage site of an ancient civilisation dating back Aeneolithic and Bronze age. Today, there is 3 excavated site on display.
The most aesthetic pleasing of the 3 site. Believed to a site of a religious ritual ground 


Out and about

Going to collect water

Brother and sister chasing eachother.

Kids come out to the streets to play as the sun comes down
Friendly and curious locals



Fan Mountains-Haft Kul (Seven Lakes)


Haft a 20km-long chain of turquoise pools strung along the western end of the Fan Mountain range consisting of Seven Lakes. Having organised transport with Niyozkul the previous night, me and David were promptly picked up in our shared taxi. 


Our ride to Haft Kul.
Stuffing 4 tourist David, Thomas and Peter in the back of the 4WD. David hiding from the camera and not too happy with the seating arrangements.

Passing the third lake on the way to our homestay.
Our homestay by the lake inbetween Lake 4 and 5
Man of the house and owner of the homestay with his two daughters

Portrait of his daughter.
Lake 4
House in the mountain by Lake 4.
Milky way from above at night just outside the homestay.
Tajik girl from the Fan Mountain from a village located between lake 4 and 5. 
Village kids from the same village
Lake 5
Heading to Lake 6

Daily commute 
Interesting old man who wanted David's sunglasses.
Lake 6 
Man Living at the end of Lake 6 
Man Living at the end of Lake 6

Donkey power
In the end, I didn't quite make it to Lake 6, sustained injury from a rolled ankle in Laos meant walking down wasn't alot of fun :(.

Fan Mountains- Iskander Kul and Sarytag

Leaving Penjikent, I headed to the other side of the Fan Mountains for Sarytag where I stayed a night and passing Iskander Kul on the way. A nice stay before heading into the capital albeit in injured ankle limited my activities.
Road to Iskander Kul
Iskander Kul Lake in the distance.
Iskander Kul
Sarytag

Sarytag


Sun setting over Sarytag
Milky way!
Storm rolling in in the morning as I leave Sarytag for Dushanbe.
That's all for now.

2 comments:

  1. Replies
    1. Thanks. This was over a year ago and i do miss the place! Hopefully i will be able to come back again!

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