Thursday, 25 September 2014

Tajikistan P5: The Wakhan Valley

Having stayed in Khorog for a fews, my plan was to set out to the Wahkan Valley. I thought to try my luck at the local CBT office in Khorog PECTA to find a group who would want to share a car. To my luck, I met 4 other travellers, Dimitri, Nico, Gabi and Camilla who happened to arrived at Pamir Logde the night before where I was staying who had the same plans. Nicolas, who had kept contact with his driver from Dushanbe made arrangements to call our driver.

The next morning, our driver Mukhtor promptly picked us up from the Pamir Lodge where we were staying ay 8am.
Our 4WD for the trip.

Tuesday, 16 September 2014

Tajikistan P4: To the Roof of the World Music Festival

Leaving Sarytag, the homestay organised a driver back to Savoda on the main highway before I tried to hitch my ride to Dushanbe (technically not hitch since you pay for a ride. Everyone seems to be a taxi in this part of the world).

The road to Dushanbe proved an interesting right as you enter the "tunnel of death". A pothole filled tunnel with absence of good lighting and airflow whatsoever. Originally built by the Iranians, the tunnel is said to be so bad that it is unfixable and even the Chinese do not want to get their hands dirty according to the locals.

The "tunnel of death".

Sunday, 14 September 2014

Tajikistan P3: Penjikent and the Fan Mountains Highlights

My journey in Tajikistan continued leaving Istaravshan towards Penjikent. Initially not planning to head this way, I was intrigued by it's history after meeting a fellow traveller David the night before who sold me on the prospects of Penjikent and it's ancient Silk road past. Penjikent offered some interesting archaeological sight and a nice springboard to visit Kaft Kul(Seven Lakes) in the Fan Mountains.

Going through some high passes and mountainous roads, it gave a nice taste of what Tajikistan had to offered. Although, somewhat taxing conditions as most roads were badly maintained and unsealed but providing some great views.
The road to Penjikent. One bumpy ride.

Friday, 12 September 2014

Tajikistan Part 2: Amazing Istaravshan

Leaving Khojand, I hopped on the local marshrutkas to Istaravshan located about an hour from Khojand. Istarafshan was a surprise in itself. Being a small town and limited information provided on the Lonely Planet guide I venture out to explore the town. Although nothing all that fascinating and a lack of major sights, it was made up by the warmth I received by the locals here. By far, my favourite place in Tajikistan.

Waiting for the marshrutkas to fill up before it heads to Istaravshan

Friday, 5 September 2014

Tajikistan Part 1: Entering through the Norhwest (Batken-Isfara-Khojand)

Whilst most people coming from Kyrgyzstan into Tajikistan choose to go via Sary Tash-Murgab using the eastern border, I decided to come from the western side via Batken-Isfara and cover Tajikistan in an anti-clockwise direction. I was not disappointed, and past some amazing places and mid some amazing people. Tajikistan was full of hospitality and friendly people.

My journey began from Osh, Kyrgyzstan travelling like a local on a marshrutkas to a little town Batken where I technically got my first taste of Uzbekistan as the road crossed over the border, then crossing over to Isfara, Tajikistan and changing buses before heading to Khojand.

Osh-Batken-Isfara

Whilst nothing interesting, I was forced to stay in Batken for a night as the local buses for Isfara only leave in the morning. Batken was a small town with the lack of any fellow travellers in sight and locals a fairly friendly bunch although quite camera shy.

Inside the local bus to Batken