Part 2, Northern Laos Hightlights

My departure from Vientiane began with an 11 hour "VIP" bus ride to Luang Prabang. I was promptly picked up from my hostel by a tuk tuk and ushered to the northern bus station located about 8km from the centre which served all the northern routes.

The tuk tuk ride to the bus station

Northern Bus Station: The "VIP" bus serving Vientiane-Luang Prabang route.

While the "VIP" bus was nothing to brag about, little did I know this would be the most comfortable bus ride so far in Laos and the only one with functioning air-conditioning. It also provided a great scenic drive through the Laos mountainside.

Getting comfortable on the long, bumpy and windy trip, while enjoying the scenic drive.

Driver cum mechanic replacing an engine belt during a stop

Food sellers surrounds the bus duringa stop to sell their goods.

Scheduled lunch stop of noodle soup included in price of bus ticket

Luang Prabang

Kuang Si Waterfall

My initial plans in Luang Prabang was to wake up at 4.30am and going to see the alms ceremony, however my body had other plans and much needed catchup on my sleep. Eventually, I started out my day around 8am and after some breakfast, it was time to look for KPTD Motorcycles to rent my bike. Although more expensive than other options available, there were some assurance I won't ultimately be scammed.

My first stop was the highly rated Kuang Si Waterfall located 26km south-west of Luang Prabang. The waterfall was relatively easy to get to with signpost marking where to turn off and road conditions fair with exception of never-ending potholes along the way.

Road to Kuang Si WaterFall

Upon entering, you'll first past a bear rescue centre where black bears are on display and the first level of waterfall is a simple 5 minute walk.

Entering the Waterfall

Bear Rescue Centre inside Kuang Si Waterfall

Kuang Si Waterfall: 2nd tier

Kuang Si Waterfall: 2nd tier

Going for a dip

Kuang Si Waterfall 4th tier

Kuang Si Water fall 5th tier.

On the way up to the 5th tier, I was welcomed with torrential rain cutting my excursion at Kuang Si Waterfall and day short.

Alms Ceromony

Determined to do the alms ceremony before I left Luang Prabang, I woke up a 4.40am and made my way to Wat Sen. My afterthoughts on having seen the ceremony is while it makes for an interesting observation for an outsider, the ceremony in Luang Prabang have become somewhat of a tourist spectacle. There was a sense of lack of respect from many visitors from:

1. Tourists standing way too close to monks taking close up shots with phones/camera.
2. Tourists participating in the event and treating is as a tourist event
3. Tourists participating and dressing inappropriately for the events
4. Tourists participating and taking photos as the monks walk past them
5. Local Vendors trying to capitalise on tourist activity and selling goods to provides alms to the monks.  

Local vendor trying to capitalise on tourist activity before the alms ceremony

Guy on the left of the photo is way too close with his phone!

Tourists arrive by the busload in the morning to treat the religious event as a tourist event for their amusement

The more authentic experience

My advice to anyone planning to go see this event is:

1. Observe the rules on how to dress
2. While it may seem "fun" to join in, I would strongly consider remaining as observers from the distance unless there is significant meaning to you.
3. For a more authentic experience, go to one of the smaller temples or going to the backstreets. While not as many monks, there is fewer crowd and tourists also.

The more authentic Alms Ceremony

Muang Ngoi Neau

Muang Ngoi remains the highlight of my stay in Laos so far, and my only regret is not staying here longer! Accommodation comes cheap at 5USD a night with private bathroom and riverside view during the low season.

Located 1 hour upriver from Nong Khiaw, the rustic town of Muang Ngoi remains relatively untouched having only received constant source of electricity less than 1 year ago.

To get there, you first take a minivan from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw(3-4 hours). From Nong Khiaw, there is a boat that goes to Muang Ngoi twice a day.

Nong Khiaw Boat Office

Nong Khiaw Boat Ramp

The boat ride up Nam Ou River to Muang Ngoi Neau

Scenic and serene boat ride

Kids play in the river on the boat ride up to Muang Ngoi

Muang Ngoi Neau: The riverview by the boatramp during sunset

Surrounding scenery in Muang Ngoi Neau

Sunset in Muang Ngoi

Village kids play and swim in the Nam Ou River

Village kids play and swim in the Nam Ou River

Locals and wash their clothes bathe in the river

The rustic little town of Muang Ngoi Neau

Village kids all too happy to pose for a photo minus the one in the background. haha.

Big sister teaching little brother how to ride a bicycle. No trainings wheels needed here... Just hold on tight!

Fishing with the locals!

Phonsavanh/ Plains of Jars

Plains of Jars is a megalithic site scattered in many sites around Xieng Khouang and considered as the Stonehenge of Laos. Believed to be burial urns for the dead dating back to 500BC, archaeologist remain baffled how they came about.

There are 3 sites marked as safe to visit and cleared of UXO. However, due to the rain we were only able to visit site 1.

Plains of Jars site 1

Plains of Jars site 1

Plains of Jars site 1 with jars scattered all over

A bomb crater from US bombing during the Vietnam war. No going off the beaten track around this area