Thien's Travelography: Into Uzbekistan! Mixed feelings on Samarkand!

Leaving Shymkent Kazakhstan, I hopped onto a shared taxi towards Chernayeka where I was dropped off on the main highway. Having no tenge to spare, from the main highway it was a 3km hike to the border crossing and probably one of the most chaotic border crossing I've experience Central Asia. For those trying to use this border, careful of changing money here as they are all a bunch of cheats! My advice, over the Uzbek side after leaving customs, walk 1km to the little town and try to change in a shop there and ask around there and then try to hitch a ride into town from a local as everyone seems to be a taxi driver here(taxi are bona fide arsehole here).

Border crossing from the Kazakh side.

Having spent more than 2 months surrounded by mountainous landscape, I was quite excited for some cultural and historical enrichment of the ancient Silk Road and escaping from my short and relatively expensive stay in Kazahkstan. Having read about the great Silk Road city of Samarkand, Buhkhara and Khiva, I must say I was somewhat disappointed by Samarkand to some extend, having been so heavily restored during the early 1900s by the Russians, it felt like something built in the last century as opposed to some centuries ago albeit still magnificent sites. No better example of this can be seen than Resgistan Square in Samarkand surrounded by the 3 majestic madrasahs. One is left to imagine about it's glorious original form.

While there were many sights to see, I found myself picking and choosing and being rather selective where to visit given the entrance fee of going into such places. It didn't help that Uzbekistan liked to charged foreigners five to tenfold what the locals pay.

Of the sight worth mentioning:

1. Shah-i-Zinda

Of the places in Samarkand, the boulevard of mausoleum(aka cemetery) was probably my favourite with some amazing mosaic work.

Entrance to Shah-i-Zinda

Lovely ceiling of Shirin Beka Mausoleum.

Shirin Beka Mausoleum. From 14th century, built for Timur's sister Shirin Beka oko

Shodi Mulk Oko Mausoleum ceiling

Shodi Mulk Oko Mausoleum. Built in 1372 on honour of Temur’s sister Turkon oko and her daughter Shodi Mulk oko

Usto Ali Nasafi Mausoleum. Built somewhere between 1360-1370.

Usto Ali Nasafi Mausoleum

Men praying inside "The Gate"

2. The Registan

As per my thoughts above, one is only left to imagine about it's original state prior to it's destruction and restoration, albeit still a pretty looking sight.

Old meets new. The western influence on the Islamic world.

The somewhat unexpected light show at night at Registan Square lighting up the Medrasahs.

Sunrise over Registan Square

Ulugbek Medrasah. View on top of the minret from Tilla Killa Madrasah.

Outer walls of Tilla Killa Madrasah

Sherdor Madrasah

Inner courtyard of Ulugbek Madrasah

No longer used as a religious school, the Madrasahs is filled with merchants capitalising on tourism.

Merchants/vendors lined up inside Sherdor Madressa

Gold leaf interior of the mosque inside Tilla Killa Madrasah

3. Bibi Khanym Mosque

One of the biggest mosque in Central Asia, but the most intriguing thing was the largely unrestored interior hall of the mosque which was a refreshing sight for flash Samarkand, plus the actual height of the Mosque.